Martha's Vineyard and Chappaquiddick, Massachusetts

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Off to Martha's Vineyard to celebrate our anniversary!

The ride from Philadelphia, PA to Woods Hole, MA was to take 6.5 hours. Our ferry reservation was at 2:30. We were going to leave by 7 am to give ourselves an hour of cushion-time for traffic or whatever. The alarm went off early Thursday morning but I didn't get up-I just worked the sound of the alarm into my dream. So we overslept. We left about 2 hours later than expected so that wiped out our 1 hour cushion-time AND, likely, our ferry reservation. We sped through PA and into NJ totally prepared to take Tappan Zee Bridge when we must have read each others minds: Maybe we should risk taking the George Washington Bridge b/c its a more direct route and we need to make up time? We talked about it for like 45 seconds until we had to either stay to the right for GWB or continue to the left to ultimately take Tappan Zee. Cement median is approaching! What should we do what should we do!? We stayed to the right and risked it with GWB. Although Ive not seen so MUCH traffic in my life since rush hour on the capital beltway we actually moved along at a slow but steady pace.

In the end we did miss the 2:30 ferry but we were able to get across on the next one (3:45 I think). Our ferry was a smaller one (took a larger one home) and we were one of the last cars on, right behind a lady in a silver Honda. We looked around and everyone was sitting in their cars except for Honda lady. Where did she go? Were we allowed to get out of our cars?? If so, then why wasnt anyone else getting out? For about 10 minutes we all sat packed in our cars looking at each other. Finally Chris asked one of the crew members and he kindly informed us that we were allowed to get out of our cars-yeah!

We climbed the steps and looked out over the water-it was a GREAT day! We saw land ahead and didnt mind asking the nice gentlemen next to us if that was in fact Martha’s Vineyard before we started snapping pictures. They told us about how we simply had to try some lobster while we were there and the best place to get it (Menemsha they said)-they were headed over there to enjoy some that very afternoon!

We arrived on the island in Vineyard Haven: land of beautifully faded wooden siding and greyed cedar rooves-exactly what comes to mind when you think Martha's Vineyard. We didnt hang around too long though-we were so excited to check in that we headed straight for our bed and breakfast in Edgartown: The Sharon House. The directions provided by a friend were RIGHT ON! Chris drove and as I read the commentary she provided (beach on the left, lagoon on the right) it made me feel like we had our own personal tour guide in the car with us!

Edgartown has a different look than VH in that many of the houses were white w/ columns and black shutters. “Greek revival” they say-very pretty. The lady at the front desk for check in was very nice and she walked us to our room. We were quite pleased with our room-we had chosen the second room over from the left in the website pictures (top floor w/ cathedral ceiling-called Bellagio or something like that) and the room looked just like the picture! Everything was very nice and clean and as advertised (queen bed, gas fireplace, flat screen tv) and thats always a good thing.

For some reason the tv only had volume on like 5 of the channels and the wireless internet was very weak at best. The bathroom was tiny and the tub was standard size-no frills there but, again, nice and clean! Between a dresser in the room and another in the closet drawer space was fine (at least for our 4 night stay). There was Chilmark Chocolate candy and champagne in the room waiting for us and a note that said Happy Anniversary Chris and Carrie-how sweet! The website states that the champagne and candy are standard this time of year b/c breakfast is no longer served but the note was a nice personalized touch. There is a dorm-sized refrigerator on the bottom level for everyones use. There are four rooms total in the Sharon House and you can hear everything. Thankfully we didnt hear “that” but we did hear a super loud television and slamming doors from the one other occupied room. We didnt complain about the tv or the loud neighbors so cant comment on how the Sharon House staff handle stuff like that. I will say that back in July I had reserved an 8:30 hot tub slot for our use that evening that we arrived (anniversary) but when we checked in was told that wasnt possible b/c the staff was leaving at six that day and we cant use the hot tub w/o staff present. We were disappointed but didnt say anything.

The Sharon House is located in the heart of the shops in Edgartown so if you stay there you can walk and dont have to worry about fighting for a parking spot-which was happening even now in late October!

After check in I unpacked and Chris slept. And slept. Around 8:00 I woke him up and went to have dinner at Newes From America. We were excited to eat here on our special night b/c the décor sounded neat and right up our alley (fireplace, low lighting, wooden beamed ceiling). Although the fireplace wasnt on (not sure why) it was still nice. The food was nothing special.  The service was pretty bad (unfriendly).

Fridays events didnt begin until lunchtime. We headed to Linda Jeans and there was no wait. Atmosphere was light and fun! Food was fine-pretty standard, like weve had better and weve had worse. The service was much friendlier!

This was the only day that wasnt calling for rain so in order to catch the Menemsha sunset we did our “up island itinerary.” We fruitlessly searched and searched for the Mayhew Chapel and Indian Burial Ground. We gave up and located the Aquinnah Spring. Now this was interesting: our guidebook says cyclists quench their thirst with this water and locals come from all over the island to fill up their water bottles. When we arrived, however, there was a big sign posted that read something like: Non potable water Aquinnah Board of Health. So does anyone really drink the water? We filled our bottles with the water but never got the nerve to drink it.

Next we headed to the Aquinnah Cliffs, taking a detour to try some lobster as wed promised the guys on the ferry.  From Chilmark Chocolates of course :) We took the Moshup trail to the beach and the cliffs. The trail itself was cool b/c we got to see flora and fauna completely different from anything wed seen before. The Cliffs, of course, are pretty sight.

It was around 4:30 and I DID NOT want to miss my Menemsha sunset-that was thee thing I wanted to make sure I saw (and like I said, the rest of the weekend was to be cloudy and rainy) so we headed over to the beach. We arrived at Menemsha Beach and navigated along some huge rocks to await the sunset. Clouds had already set in and it was getting cold. We tried to take our own picture and a woman called out to us that shed assist. We had seen her earlier-she and what turned out to be 4 of her sorority member friends (all in their fifties) had huddled on a bench under a blanket with some wine! It turns out our camera battery had died so she took several shots of us w/ her own camera and promised to email them to us-how sweet! She and her friends poured us a glass of wine and toasted our anniversary-I felt so warm and fuzzy inside (from the friendliness, not the wine)! She saw the law school sweatshirt I had on and asked where we were from-it turns out she is also from the Philadelphia area! What a small world! THEN another woman that none of us knew had overheard our conversation and approached me and said her sister lives in my town as well! We all laughed at what a small world it is and how wonderful it is to meet new people in new places and how good karma always comes back to you!

After the sunset we headed to Offshore Ale for dinner.  Great ambiance!  And the "peanut shells on the floor" thing was fun.  Bad food, friendly service.

Saturday it rained. We ate breakfast at Among the Flowers outside on their heated porch which was really very cute. Service was pretty good and food was standard.  Served on paper plates w/ plastic forks and knives while our hot tea was served in China cups-a whimsical contrast! It was a nice experience! We stopped into Good Dog Goods and bought some goodies for the furry friends in our lives! Adorable shop.

Then we headed over to Chappaquidick! You drive your car onto the ramp and sit there for about a minute until you reach the other side. We first headed to Wasque and drove until sign read: sand vehicles only. We walked the rest of the way to the beach which was really amazing b/c we felt like we were the only people on the planet! I couldnt get over the beauty of the land.

Next we headed to Mytoi Gardens which would end up being one of our favorite activities. We were nearly the only ones in the garden so we got to take our time exploring and enjoy the truly peaceful atmosphere.

Still rainy and grey when we returned, we wanted comfort food so had lunch at the Black Dog Tavern.  We had the whole place to ourselves and really enjoyed watching the choppy sea from the large windows.  Service was friendly but a little slow (we needed drink refills: Bueller?) but our food was YUMMY! Chris got a bacon cheeseburger w/ bbq sauce (he thinks it was called smokehouse burger) and I got a grilled cheese on sourdough bread which I promise you this was the best grilled cheese on the planet! Despite others saying it was lackluster and touristy we actually really loved it!  After lunch we aimlessly checked out some of the gift shops, just enjoying the rainy day and each others company. We talked to lots of the shop employees who were all very friendly!

We headed home and hung out in our Sharon-House-provided robes and watched a movie wed rented from home (called Scottsdale, PA w/ the lady from ER and Christopher Walken-pretty good). Chris fell asleep (surprise) and I watched Friday the 13th part 1 on tv. When we headed out to get dinner it was about 9 pm. I know I know-everyone told us this would happen: NOTHING was opened for dinner expect for a few bars. We drove back and forth b/w the towns so many times that even the Stop and Shop closed.  Dinner tonight: Champagne and chocolates courtesy of Sharon House.

Sunday, our last day, we shared an apple fritter from some bakery (next to the post office in Oak Bluffs) which was tasty. We headed out determined to find the Mayhew Chapel and Indian Burial ground. We drove all the way into Cedar Tree Neck Park (which means we traveled down many unpaved roads but, as our friend predicted, had no problem in our old Volvo) b/c according to the guidebook map the chapel was right near, if not IN, the park. When we arrived at trail head another couple approached and we asked them about the chapel. They didnt know either. When we planned our trip we thought we would take the trail in Cedar Tree Neck but we ended up changing our mind so offered our printed research material to this couple (tells you how to follow the trail and explains various markers along the trail so you know what youre looking at). They were happy to receive this and it felt good sharing-the whole karma thing you know. They pulled out their maps and tried to help us find the Chapel but to no avail. Cursing the guide(less)book Chris took matters (and map) into his own hands and got us there in like 5 minutes (must be those Eagle Scout skills).  The Chapel turned out to be one of our favorite experiences on the island.

For dinner on our last night we headed to David Ryans.  Service was great and we ate like piggies.  We rolled ourselves out the door to just MAYBE catch a glimpse of some stars. No chance. Other than the first night we didnt see a single star (serious cloud cover). I imagine pole position for stargazing are the beaches-laying in the sand letting the world disappear.  How dreamy!

Monday, our day to return home (and back to school). We had ferry reservations for 6 am b/c Chris was supposed to take an exam that evening. He got it rescheduled so we had no time restraints. We arrived at the ferry around 9:30 and were in “standby” and didnt actually board the ferry until around noon. Yeah, we had to wait but we knew this was a possibility so we were ok with it. While our car held our spot in line we walked over to Beetlebung. I got a hot chocolate and scone and Chris got blueberry muffin and hot tea. It was a cute enough place but if Im honest-both the muffin and the scone were really quite bad. Chris does want me to add that our stuff cost $16.00-not a problem if food is good (or even edible).  We ate until we were full and threw the rest away. The ferry ride back was pleasant enough-we sat in the car this time and read. 

Our drive back to PA was a bit rough. It was raining which always makes traffic ten times worse than normal. We did opt for Tappan Zee this time and had no problems. The Merrit Parkway was a beautiful drive-covered with stoney bridges and lined with changing leaves!! We hit some serious traffic on Garden State Parkway-rush hour, rain, both. We like road trips but were ready to be home by the time we hit the final stretch at the Commodore Barry Bridge.

Martha's Vineyard was a really great low-key getaway packed with a good amount of nature and history that could easily be enjoyed over a long weekend.  With so many places to see in the world I dont often find myself saying this: I would go back!

Cayman Islands

We took a lot of cruises during graduate/law school as they offered a perfect all-inclusive cost-friendly time-sensitive combination of relaxation and "soft travel."

Recognizing they may have many fine points, we quickly learned cruise ship excursions were not for us. We just had a more enjoyable time researching ports beforehand, deciding what we wanted to experience, then making that happen on our own. Sometimes this meant contacting local operators/guides and other times it meant renting a form of transportation and setting off on our own. For each port I will provide a published synopsis and then post our own experience.

Courtesy of Lonely Planet
"Three tiny islands make up the British Overseas Territory of the Cayman Islands, balanced precariously one side of the enormous Cayman Trench, the deepest part of the Caribbean. While synonymous worldwide with banking, tax havens and beach holidays, there’s much more to this tiny, proud nation, even if you do need to look quite hard to find it.  What’s so surprising about the Caymans at first is how un-British they are – it would be hard to design a more Americanized place than Grand Cayman, where the ubiquitous SUVs jostle for space in the parking lots of large malls and US dollars change hands as if they were the national currency. Caymans may lack the dramatic scenery and steamy nightlife of much of the rest of the Caribbean, but in their place you’ll find a charming, independent and deeply warm people spread over three islands boasting many of life’s quieter charms."

We have been to Grand Cayman a handful of times and in our younger days it was one of our favorite destinations as it was our first time experiencing such a feeling of beautiful natural remoteness.  Each trip we generally follow the same routine: rent a scooter, drive all over the island, stop at a secluded beach, and pick up a bottle of water from the ladies working in the souvenir shop in Hell.  The island hasnt changed too, too much over the years other than it has gotten harder to find a secluded beach.  Now motoring through the quiet roadway one can see endless construction sites crawling with doozers building giant houses by the sea.  And while more shopping strips have popped up I wouldnt exactly call it suburbia (thank goodness).

Jamaica

Ocho Rios

We took a lot of cruises during graduate/law school as they offered a perfect all-inclusive cost-friendly time-sensitive combination of relaxation and "soft travel."

Recognizing they may have many fine points, we quickly learned cruise ship excursions were not for us.  We just had a more enjoyable time researching ports beforehand, deciding what we wanted to experience, then making that happen on our own.  Sometimes this meant contacting local operators/guides and other times it meant renting a form of transportation and setting off on our own.  For each port I will provide a published synopsis and then post our own experience.

Courtesy of Lonely Planet:

"Wrapped around a small bay with postcard-worthy snugness, Ocho Rios is a former fishing village that the Jamaica Tourist Board earmarked for tourism in the 1960s and developed in the mid-1980s. With Main St lined with shopping plazas, craft markets and fast-food emporiums, its appeal is not immediately obvious to the more adventurous traveler, but others welcome this ‘Jamaica Lite’ – the opportunity to experience the country without straying too far from the comforts and conveniences of home.

The frequent docking of cruise ships at the central pier that commands the town’s focus gives ‘Ochi’ a decidedly ‘packaged’ feel, spiced up by the incessant entreaties of ‘guides’ and souvenir sellers. However, it has also endowed the town with an international eating scene and two distinct kinds of nightlife: rough-and-ready dancehall clubs and beach sound-systems versus karaoke nights and all-you-can-drink swimwear parties. The choice is yours.

Those who come to Ochi expecting peace and solitude are likely to be disappointed, but the town makes an excellent base for active, solvent travelers who wish to explore the scenic north coast and to partake in slick, well-managed ‘adventures’ such as dog sledding, zip-line tours, horseback riding and waterfall climbing."

Our time in Ocho Rios can be summed up pretty simply:

• We spent the entire day on a gorgeous beach in rented chaise lounges under a palm tree.

• We were approached by an elderly toothless local gentleman who offered to sell us a fruit plate for ten bucks.  This is not something we typically do but we figured hey why not.  The man disappeared behind a nearby wooden hut and after several minutes of chopping he presented us with the biggest and most magnificent platter of fresh tropical fruit we have ever seen!  It. Was. Delicious.  To this day we still talk about that fruit plate.  We gave him twenty bucks.

• Word spread quickly as shortly thereafter we were approached by another local.  This time selling "fresh Jamaican aloe" for five bucks.  We should have known better but the fruit thing worked out so well.....  Moments later the man returned with a sandy rum bottle containing "fresh Jamaican aloe" (hah, I know) more resembling floating cheese curd than anything else.  But we had agreed so we handed over the five dollars.  Except then he starts yelling it was supposed to be ten.  I have no memory of how this resolved so nothing exceptional mustve happened.

• Walking back from the beach we noticed guards or police of some sort with very big guns standing outside the entrance of a few banks.  It didnt really phase us beyond "noticing" it; maybe thats how they roll here.  Later we asked my friend from Jamaica if this was the norm and he laughed and said absolutely not and called it "nonsense" they were brandishing weapons.

• Walking through town passersby would, without stopping or looking at us, mumble a single word: doobie?

Costa Maya

Costa Maya

We took a lot of cruises during graduate/law school as they offered a perfect all-inclusive cost-friendly time-sensitive combination of relaxtion and "soft travel."

Recognizing they may have many fine points, we quickly learned cruise ship excursions were not for us. We just had a more enjoyable time researching ports beforehand, deciding what we wanted to experience, then making that happen on our own. Sometimes this meant contacting local operators/guides and othertimes it meant renting a form of transportation and setting off on our own. For each port I will provide a published synopsis and then post our own experience.

Courtsey of Royal Caribbean:

"Costa Maya, once a trading post for the Mayan Empire, is located in the Mexican Caribbean and is best known for its jungles, beaches, lagoons and Mayan ruins. Recent development and modern port facilities are making Costa Maya the perfect port of call. With so many activities, it will be hard to decide what to do first."

Our experience in Costa Maya was interesting.  The "port" passengers are shuttled into is a walled city of shopping (our version of hell) and they really discouraged us from leaving this space on our own.  So we did.  We walked quite a ways to rent a jeep to drive ourselves around the island.  We saw lots of ruins-many deserted as I guess these werent stops on an excursion so it was neat to have these ancient places virtually to ourselves-save for some friendly dogs and random locals that would try to situate themselves as your "guide."  We actually went for it one time, "what the hey," we figured.  I remember it being not so bad though I forget all we learned in those few moments.

Aside from the ruins I remember one of us commenting, as we drove down the narrow roads flanked by spaghetti messes of weeds and bushes, how we could be in the US for all we could tell.

At one point we were flagged down to stop by two "officers" holding large guns.  As we began to slow to a stop we began to form our plan: how much money we should offer as a starting point.  Wed heard countless stories of tourists being restrained, released only after "payment" (coughs: bribe) is made. As we slowed to a stop the two ominous moustached men simply looked at us and waved us on.  Whew!

Cozumel

Cozumel

We took a lot of cruises during graduate/law school as they offered a perfect all-inclusive cost-friendly time-sensitive combination of relaxation and "soft travel."

Recognizing they may have many fine points, we quickly learned cruise ship excursions were not for us. We just had a more enjoyable time researching ports beforehand, deciding what we wanted to experience, then making that happen on our own. Sometimes this meant contacting local operators/guides and other times it meant renting a form of transportation and setting off on our own. For each port I will provide a published synopsis and then post our own experience.

Courtesy of WikiTravel:

"An immensely popular diving spot since 1961, when Jacques Cousteau, led by local guides, showed its spectacular reefs to the world, Cozumel lies 71km south of Cancún. Measuring 53km by 14km, it is Mexico’s largest island. Called Ah-Cuzamil-Peten (Island of Swallows) by its earliest inhabitants, Cozumel has become a world-famous diving and cruise ship destination. Hurricane Wilma did some serious damage to the snorkeling sites around the island, but most of the deep-water reefs missed the brunt of the storm. Sadly, the squadrons of eagle rays have dwindled, due to overfishing of the shellfish stocks – no shellfish, no eagle rays."


We have been here a few times but without a doubt the most amazing experience was our first visit which was centered around diving with Ernesto.  We had never gone diving before and we found a program that offered an opportunity to get instruction, participate in a dive, and earn our first diving certificate.

Upon arrival we were seated in an open-air hut to watch a diving safety video.  The group included Chris, me, and one other older female (not "older" but older than us).  Our instructor, Ernesto, then spent time with us going over the facts of the video and explaining the importance of and the meaning behind key diving safety features.  Some things, like death, concerned me and while I may have seemed outwardly calm inside I was growing slightly panicked.  Ive never been one that liked to proactively (what I then learned was called) "equalize" so even this was weighing on me as we suited up.

After we had our tanks, our fins, our face masks and all that we practiced our breathing and reviewed some basic hand signals (a-ok)!   Then it was time to head to the water!  Except I couldnt stand.  Of course having zero exposure to this, I hadnt expected the "gear" to be so heavy.

Once in the water it took some time getting used to breathing b/c it feels like taking slow breaths through a straw.  Taking immense comfort in the knowledge Ernesto was mere feet away, I eventually lost myself in the pretty sea life.  After a few minutes he adjusted the weights on my belt so I could better control my movement and I remember feeling safe knowing he had noticed this because it meant he was watching and taking care of me.  The dive itself was absolutely amazing.  It really is a whole other world down there, I cant describe it any other way.  Ernesto, always nearby, scooped something from the sand and brought it to me.  It was a starfish!  I cant recall the details other than at one point I grew nervous and Ernesto was there instantly.  He got close to me and leveled his eyes with mine.  He motioned he was watching me and that I was ok.  I can still remember how he was able to so easily and so immediately communicate this and bring me right back to zen.  I happily flipped away and carried on with one of the coolest experiences of my life.

The other member of our trio had some tougher issues.  She was at points coming out of the water and crying and while I wasnt privy to their interaction I saw Ernesto was right there with her each time.  Its funny-when I began to write this narrative, so many years after the fact, I googled "ernesto cozumel diving" and there are countless reviews singing his praise.  In fact, the first result is "Ernesto is awesome!"  Awesome indeed!

London and Paris

For our first wedding anniversary we decided to take a trip to Europe.  And what better place to celebrate than in the City of Light/Love!

Still new to travel we werent really sure where to begin.  We went the only route we knew at the time and booked our first (and last) "canned tour" with a travel company.

It was a London/Paris combo which really I think is fine for many and was generally speaking even fine for us at the time.  The details are fading but pertinent points follow.

London (See subsequent trip to London in Sri Lanka and Maldives narrative)

• They speak English but there is still a language barrier
• The best veggie burger Id ever had (despite reputation for "eh" food)
• Big Ben
• London was clean
• Pub crawl
• Parliament at night
• The Eye was a neat experience-had a globe all to ourselves as it was closing time (guy was fairly certain I wasnt dangerous but did politely ask me to remove and explain my grendade-shaped paco rabanne perfume bottle)
• River Thames pronounced "temz"
• We love/d London
• (Chris) Lugging around giant video recorder

Paris

• They eat dinner significantly later than in the US
• No points were given for trying to speak the local language
• Went to top of la tour Eiffel right before dusk to see 1. the city by day 2. the setting sun from the tower and 3. the city by night.  Was windy, kissed lots.
• Chris = target of failed pickpocket attempt
• Versailles was only ok though was a lovely little journey to get there
• Cool restaurant by water with steep spiral staircase leading to bathroom but gnats EVERYwhere-on our food, landing in our wine...I was the only one that seemed to take issue
• Seine River pronounces "sen" like "ten"
• Paris was filthy
• Conveyed our desire for a table for dinner in french at a few restaurants but were unable to translate the things they said to us in response so went to gas station by hotel and purchased a baguette, a brick of cheese, and a tomato, and used our swiss army knife to make sammies
• Preferred Musee d'Orsay to the Louvre
• In the Louvre I was upset nearly everyone was blatantly taking flash pictures of the Mona Lisa despite signs clearly stating not to.  And that I, as rule follower, would not have a picture of it to treasure yet these rule-breakers would.  A very kind gentleman in our group explained that due to the reflective glass covering the painting their photos wouldn't turn out anyway and with his own digital camera (which I did not have and were still new and exciting at that time) he took a flash photo and proved this.
• Wasnt crazy about Paris but would give it another shot-mightve been because we were young and inexperienced
• (Chris) Lugging around giant video recorder

Mexico, with a splash of California (the back-up Honeymoon)

Our honeymoon for October 2001 had been planned for months.  We were to fly to Papeete, with a layover in Hawaii, and take a week-long cruise around the Tahitian islands before spending another week in an over-water bungalow.

Then September 11 happened.  (No discussion of those horrid details within, obv the impact on our plans was insignificant in comparison.)

Through a series of subsequent events we were unable to go to Tahiti and were left with very few options if we did indeed still intend to take a honeymoon.  Still in shock and mourning, it was difficult to separate our wedding from what was happening in the world around us.  We werent even sure we wanted to take a honeymoon at that point-both from a personal and a safety perspective.  Our travel agency (American Express) worked with us to provide alternatives for us to consider.  At the time, the government said the only "safe places" to travel were Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean, and, ironically, the US.  Based on that information and the options available to use we chose a 10-night cruise with Holland America down the western coast of Mexico, shouldered by several days in California.

Our flight to Los Angeles left early the morning after our wedding.  The plane was nearly empty and I slept the entire time.

Upon arrival we rented our convertible (because if not on a honeymoon, when!?) and headed to the first stop in our itinerary: Santa Monica!  We stayed in a corner-room suite at the Santa Monica Loews which had magnificent views of the ocean and the famous (to us!) Santa Monica Pier!  We were barely in our 20s and hadnt done a lot of traveling together plus just being married-sooo many things were new and exciting for us and thinking back now to write this narrative is pure nostalgia!  Like, I remember seeing someone doing tai chi one morning near the beach and that seemed so "California" to us!  I remember how we laughed when we saw how the Calvin Klein bedding in the room was exactly the same as we had on our registry-and somehow we felt we were meant to be there!

That afternoon we drove with aimless wonder around and oohed and ahhed at all the landmarks wed only ever heard about or seen in movies!  Rodeo Drive!  The Chinese Theater! The Walk of Fame! Then, as the sun began to set, we started our obligatory search for the Hollywood sign!  After puttering around the beautifully steep and winding residential neighborhoods we finally stopped and asked a jogger if she could point us in the direction of the sign and we learned something completely unexpected: the sign isnt lit!  Again, so cute to think back how naive we were and on how little we had planned or researched!  We took an impromptu late-night drive out to/back from Palm Desert because Chris had been there many times to visit family as a child and thought it was such a neat area!  The drive out to the desert in the dark, giant windmills looming, was magically haunting. I remember it felt so other-worldly.  We didnt reach Palm Desert until after 10pm and I remember it was still so alive!  It seemed every street was lined with outdoor seating and beautiful people dining under a starry expansive sky!

We have  returned to Palm Desert since our honeymoon and while my recent memories do not match my honeymoon memories, the latter are still so clear in my minds' eye I am able to keep them separated from subsequent experiences.  I havent been able to reconcile why my two experiences were so varied and while I prefer my initial I am thankful for both.

We woke the next morning and drove north along PCH (famous drive with amazing views).  Often we were the only ones on the road-again, other-worldly!  Along the way, we think in Santa Barbara, I said lets open her up a bit!  Chris points to a sign "Speed enforced by aircraft," and I say, "Do you see any aircraft around here?" He smiles and pushes the gas!  We are wild and free on the road!  Well, for about a minute.  Almost instantly: wee-uuu, wee-uuu, wee-uuu; we are being pulled over by a policeman.  Luggage overflowing in the backseats, empty glove compartment save for rental agreement, and us saying we were on our honeymoon probably had something to do with the officer letting us off so easily.  He was very nice and let us go with a warning to "slow down."

Our destination was a night in Monterrey at a hotel on Cannery Row that Chris had picked out on his own.  I was skeptical...and checking in didnt make me feel any better as the "lobby" was the size of a closet.  Some of my biggest travel lessons were learned on this trip, one of them being dont judge a hotel by the size of its lobby and another being Chris sure can pick a decent nights' stay!  The Spindrift Inn is, to this day, my favorite hotel in the entire world-so so so so romantic.  We had an amazing corner room with window seatings that literally hung above the ocean crashing below us.  Upon arrival the wood-burning fireplace was already roaring and strawberries and champagne were prepared for us!  The bed was something my young mind had only ever before imagined-a four corner poster with down pillows and an irresistibly full and fluffy white duvet!  I dont think I will ever return to this hotel, to this room, because I want it to remain just like this forever.

We woke the next morning and drove (way) south to San Diego (with an impromptu sidetrip for 17 mile drive-we'd been stuck in traffic, saw a sign, and thought "why not!?" I def recommend) to stay the night at the Hotel Del Coronado.  I had read about this hotel in a magazine long ago and often thought it would be neat to be part of our honeymoon.

The grounds are gorgeous and the lobby was just absolutely amazing.  I remember the biggest floral display I had ever seen greeting us as we entered! We excitedly checked in and were quickly on our way to our room via the old-time elevator!  I dont know that I thought this then, I may have, but now I liken the hallway decor to the Overlook in The Shining.  Which maybe was foreshadowing because the room was indeed a horror.  The carpet was stained, the tv cabinet was broken, and the loveseat was facing a wall that was blank save for the outline of a square where a picture evidently once hung.  It was the worst.  Theeeee worrrrrrst.  We went down to the front desk to express our displeasure and even then we felt we werent taken seriously because we were so young.  Be it solely because of our age or because we didnt express ourselves in the manner necessary, due to our age/inexperience.  I will never know for sure why but we were greeted with ridicule.  The man said "people these days expect a big bathroom" which puzzled us because the size of anything was never part of our concerns?  He had someone show us rooms in "the newer wing" which offered about 1,000 square feet we didnt need and, we agreed, were straight out of the Golden Girls-wicker furniture with giant floral patterned cushions.  Plus a ridiculous upcharge to move us to one of these.

We chose to stay in our dilapidated room and try to enjoy the night by ordering a pizza.  So we pull out the phone book (ha yes I said phone book, this was a long time ago!) and turn to "pizza" and all the pages are ripped out.  We are forced to order overpriced undersized pizza from room service and, on par with the rest of our experience, it was awful.

The next morning we (happily) departed the Hotel Del Coronado and prepared to leave California for the start of our "official" honeymoon!

Mexican Riviera, MS Statendam

Holland America, we knew from our travel agent, would be an older group.  Given it was our first cruise we didnt at the time appreciate what else that meant.  In comparison with subsequent cruises we have since taken, this meant no "girls getaways," no "spring breakers," no "drunkards on the lido."  It was a sophisticated ship, with sophisticated guests, and excellent service.

Relevant points about the cruise itself

• Requested and was given our own table for two each night for dinner (though they had said they couldnt promise it-perhaps b/c it was our honeymoon they obliged)
• Host at restaurant exit offering mints after dinner greeted us by name every. single. time.
• One of the nicest compliments I to this day have ever received: attending a show after formal night dinner wearing what had been my senior high prom dress (a simple sleeveless long, fitted black dress with a side slit and a deep v neckline with horizontal rhinestone clusters holding the neckline closed. As we take our seats, distinguished gentleman next to me says how I look so pretty and was able to do so with such class, that the dress was perfect.  Might not seem like a big deal but I can still remember how special it made me feel.  Of course maybe he was just a dirty old man but that didnt even enter my mind at the time.
• We had a balcony suite (we def spend more time in the room when we have a balcony and more time exploring the ship when we dont)
• We spent a LOT of time in the casino.  We arent big gamblers and frankly wouldnt have even known how to play most of the games so we spent our time (and money) at the quarter pusher and actually had a nice crowd gathered round us at one point which cracked us up
• Room service breakfast each morning was perfect! To this day we remember fondly how the friendly server would name and point to everything on the tray before leaving us: two toast, two meelk (his accent-milk)
• The whole cruise EVERYone kept asking us if we were Mr. and Mrs. Statendam.  We had *no idea* what this was about.  We were like...do they know we just got married?  Should we say yes and see what happens?  Later we learned it was a bit of a game, perfectly explained here by a cruisecritic poster:

"The first person to ask the said people if they were Mr. or Mrs./Ms. won a prize of some sort that I don't remember exactly what but was along the lines of a bottle of champagne or picture frame or something. They were introduced, both the secret persons and the ones who discovered them at the debarkation talk, IIRC. The idea wasn't so much the prize, but to encourage people to talk to the strangers around them and them to become no longer strangers."

Our ports inluded Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo, Ixtapa, Zihuatanejo, and Acapulco.

Though most of the details of each port have sadly faded a few things still stand out

• It was really really really really really hot at each and every port
• It was soooo hot that on day two I stopped wearing clothes into the ports and wore my bikini with a cruiseship-purchased pareo around me.  I remember all the ladies in line as we exited the ship telling me that was such a good idea (as they fanned themselves in misery)!
• We bought a flat wicker fan that I have and use to this day
• We were there over Halloween which Chris and I had learned from years of grade school Spanish was part of dia de muertos or day of the dead-which is celebrated in a completely dif manner than here in the US.  I remember one restaurant we went to had such beautiful decorations in their display windows, including elaborately designed cakes.
• We had travelled far from the port area hoping to experience "the real Mexico" and stopped in a craft shop.  Everything was so lovely and I decided to put my years of Spanish to use and said "Very pretty, is everything handmade?"  Except I must have said something way different because she frowned and we were promptly escorted out of the store.

Two excursions I still recall, a good and a bad.

The good: Mazatlan.  We signed up for a trek through the Sierra Madre mountains.  I remember the guide the cows.  The guide was a little older than us-he was an American that fell in love with a woman in Mexico.  She got pregnant, he moved there to be with her, they (hopefully) lived happily ever after!  What stuck out besides his interesting background was that it was the first time Id ever seen anyone eat a bug.  I was fascinated!  The cows were roaming freely over the foothills (which was cool) and at one point we literally had to run out of the way to avoid an oncoming stampede.  We can laugh about it now-I think we might even have some shaky footage of the incident.

The bad: Acapulco.  Cliff divers and silver jewelry factory.  The latter in which I bought a pair of earrings that was touted as being "made right here! by the people you see working in the factory on the tour!" and discovered upon return to the coach were stamped "made in Italy."  These experiences in Acapulco laid the foundation for our disdain for these sorts of things and our "package coach tour" in London and Paris solidified it.